Axolotl Medical Information & Health Guide
Understanding Axolotl Health
Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum) are unique fully aquatic salamanders known for their regenerative abilities. However, they are also sensitive to water quality, temperature, and stress. Maintaining pristine water conditions and a cool environment is fundamental to their health. This guide provides general health information and is absolutely NOT a substitute for diagnosis and treatment by a qualified aquatic veterinarian experienced with amphibians.

Common Axolotl Health Issues
Awareness of these issues is crucial for axolotl keepers.
- Ammonia/Nitrite Poisoning & Chemical Burns: Caused by poor water quality, typically in uncycled tanks or due to overfeeding/inadequate water changes. Axolotl skin and gills are very sensitive.
- Symptoms: Redness/irritation of skin, deteriorating gills (loss of filaments, shrinking), lethargy, loss of appetite, frantic swimming, gasping at surface (rare), burns/lesions on skin.
- Prevention: Cycle the aquarium properly *before* adding the axolotl, perform regular large water changes (e.g., 25-50% weekly) using dechlorinated water, avoid overfeeding, remove uneaten food promptly, use a liquid test kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels frequently.
- Note: Requires immediate action: move axolotl to a temporary tub with clean, cool, dechlorinated water matching tank temp. Address tank water quality issues. Severe burns need vet care.
- Fungal Infections: Often appear as white, cottony patches on the skin or gills. Usually secondary to stress, injury, poor water quality, or warm temperatures.
- Symptoms: Fuzzy, cotton-like growths on skin, gills, or previous injury sites.
- Prevention: Maintain cool water temperatures (60-68°F / 15-20°C), keep water clean, avoid injuries, minimize stress.
- Treatment: Mild cases may resolve with improved water quality and cool temps. More persistent cases often require salt baths (specific concentration and duration, research carefully or consult vet) or vet-prescribed antifungal treatments. Indian Almond Leaves can have mild antifungal properties.
- Bacterial Infections: Can manifest in various ways, often secondary to poor conditions or injury. Septicemia (blood infection) is serious.
- Symptoms: Lethargy, anorexia, skin lesions/ulcers, redness (erythema), gill deterioration, bloating, sudden death.
- Prevention: Pristine water quality, cool temperatures, appropriate diet, avoid stressing the axolotl, quarantine new additions (plants, tank mates – note: tank mates generally not recommended).
- Note: Requires veterinary diagnosis and antibiotic treatment (often injections or medicated food). Husbandry correction is critical.
- Impaction: Blockage of the digestive tract caused by swallowing substrate (especially gravel or sand if particle size is too large) or foreign objects.
- Symptoms: Refusal to eat, bloating, floating/difficulty staying submerged, lethargy, lack of feces.
- Prevention: Use NO substrate (bare bottom tank), use very fine sand (controversial, potential risk remains), or use large, smooth stones much bigger than the axolotl’s head. Avoid gravel entirely.
- Treatment: Mild cases may resolve with “fridging” (placing axolotl in cool, clean water in a refrigerator for a period – research specific protocols *very* carefully, consult experienced keepers/vet) to slow metabolism and potentially help pass blockage. Severe cases require veterinary intervention (laxatives, possibly surgery).
- Heat Stress: Axolotls require cool water (ideally 60-68°F / 15-20°C). Temperatures above 72°F (22°C) cause stress, increase susceptibility to disease, and can be fatal.
- Symptoms: Frantic swimming, loss of appetite, pale or curled gills, increased susceptibility to fungal/bacterial infections, lethargy, death.
- Prevention: Keep tank in a cool room, use aquarium fans blowing across the water surface, use an aquarium chiller if necessary (best option for warm climates). Monitor temperature daily.
- Note: Immediate cooling is necessary if overheating occurs. Move to cooler water gradually to avoid shock.
- Floating Issues: Can be caused by impaction, constipation, gas buildup, infection, or sometimes temporary gulping of air.
- Symptoms: Inability to stay on the tank bottom, rear end floating up.
- Prevention: Proper diet, avoid impaction risks (substrate), maintain water quality.
- Note: Determine the cause. If constipation/mild impaction, fridging might help. Persistent or severe floating needs vet check to rule out infection or major blockage.
- Injuries: Bites from tank mates (Axolotls should generally be kept alone or only with other axolotls of similar size and sex), sharp decorations, or rough handling.
- Symptoms: Missing gill filaments, nipped limbs/tail, open wounds.
- Prevention: Keep axolotls singly or appropriately paired (similar size/sex), use smooth decorations, handle gently and infrequently.
- Note: Axolotls regenerate well, but keep water pristine to prevent infection during healing. Severe injuries may need vet care. Indian Almond Leaves can help provide antibacterial/antifungal support.
Key Pillars of Axolotl Health
Excellent water management and temperature control are essential.

- Pristine Water Quality: Cycle the tank fully before introduction. Perform regular (weekly) large water changes using dechlorinated water cooled to match tank temp. Test water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH) regularly. Maintain nitrates below 20ppm ideally.
- Cool Temperatures: Keep water reliably between 60-68°F (15-20°C). Use fans or an aquarium chiller. Monitor temp daily.
- Appropriate Tank Size & Filtration: Minimum 20 gallons (long) for one adult, add 10 gallons per additional axolotl. Use a low-flow filter (sponge filter or baffled HOB/canister) to avoid stressing the axolotl.
- Safe Substrate (or None): Bare bottom is safest. Very fine sand (e.g., CaribSea Super Naturals Moonlight Sand) *may* be used with caution in adults, but carries risk. Avoid gravel and pebbles completely.
- Proper Diet: Feed high-quality earthworms (nightcrawlers, red wigglers – rinsed), axolotl pellets (sparingly), and occasional treats like bloodworms (not a staple). Remove uneaten food quickly.
- Low Stress Environment: Provide hides (caves, pipes, dense plants). Keep lighting dim (axolotls have no eyelids). Avoid strong water flow. House appropriately (ideally singly).
- Quarantine: Quarantine any new axolotls or plants in a separate system for at least 30-60 days.
General Signs of Illness in Axolotls
Watch for deviations from their normal appearance and behavior:
- Changes in appetite (refusal to eat)
- Gill deterioration (shrinking, loss of filaments, curled forward/backward unnaturally)
- Skin issues (redness, lesions, ulcers, fuzzy patches)
- Lethargy, inactivity
- Floating, inability to stay down
- Bloating
- Frantic swimming, crashing into glass
- Lack of feces
- Weight loss, thin appearance
- Changes in coloration (paleness can indicate stress)
Finding an Aquatic Amphibian Veterinarian
Finding a vet experienced with axolotls is crucial and can be difficult.
- Seek Aquatic/Amphibian Specialists: Explicitly ask clinics if they have vets experienced with *aquatic amphibians* like axolotls. Fish or reptile experience alone may not be sufficient.
- Consult Axolotl Communities: Online forums (like Caudata.org, Reddit’s r/axolotls) and Facebook groups are often the best resources for finding recommended vets in specific areas.
- Check ARAV Directory: The Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians list may have possibilities.
- Prepare Detailed Info: If you find a vet, be ready to provide exact water parameters (Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Temp), details on tank size, filtration, diet, water change schedule, and clear photos/videos.
- Transport Carefully: Transport in a small, secure container with just enough cool, clean, dechlorinated water to cover the axolotl. Keep it cool during transport.
Water Quality First: Many axolotl health issues stem from poor water quality or incorrect temperature. Always check and address these parameters first when problems arise. However, do not delay seeking veterinary help for persistent or severe symptoms. Fridging can be a useful first aid tool but requires careful research and shouldn’t replace vet care for serious issues.