Isopod Pet Care Guide

Isopods, commonly known as pill bugs, roly-polies, or woodlice, are terrestrial crustaceans increasingly popular as pets and as “clean-up crews” in bioactive terrariums. They are relatively easy to care for, breed readily, and come in a wide variety of species and color morphs (e.g., Porcellio scaber ‘Dairy Cow’, Armadillidium vulgare ‘Magic Potion’, Cubaris spp. ‘Rubber Ducky’). Care focuses on providing the right substrate, humidity gradient, and food sources.

Habitat & Enclosure

A simple, secure container with appropriate substrate and moisture is key.

• Enclosure Type: Plastic storage tubs (e.g., 6-quart size or larger for starting colonies) with secure lids are ideal. Drill small ventilation holes in the lid or upper sides. Clear containers allow for easier viewing.
• Size: Depends on colony size. Start with a reasonably sized container (like 6 qt) and upgrade as the colony grows. Overly large containers can make it hard to maintain humidity gradients initially.
• Substrate: A mixture that holds moisture and provides food is needed. A common base includes organic topsoil (pesticide/fertilizer-free), coco fiber, peat moss, and crushed limestone (for calcium). Mix in decaying hardwood leaves (oak, maple) and chunks of decaying wood (cork bark, hardwood). Substrate depth should be at least 2-3 inches.
• Leaf Litter: Essential! A generous layer of sterilized hardwood leaves (oak and maple are excellent) provides both food and hiding places.
• Hides: Pieces of cork bark, bark slabs, or seed pods provide additional hiding and climbing surfaces.
• Ventilation: Crucial to prevent stagnant air and mold. Drill enough small holes for air exchange, balancing ventilation with humidity retention based on the species. Most species prefer ventilation on only one side/portion of the lid to help maintain a moisture gradient.

Humidity & Temperature

Maintaining a moisture gradient is vital for most species.

• Humidity Gradient: Most species require a setup with both a moist area and a drier area. This allows them to self-regulate their moisture needs. Achieve this by keeping one side of the substrate consistently damp (not waterlogged) while letting the other side dry out more between mistings. The area under water dishes or damp sphagnum moss can serve as the moist zone.
• Misting: Lightly mist the designated moist side of the enclosure with dechlorinated or spring water as needed to maintain dampness. Avoid making the entire enclosure wet. Frequency depends on ventilation and ambient humidity.
• Species Variation: Some species prefer higher overall humidity (e.g., Cubaris), while others prefer drier conditions (e.g., Porcellio hoffmannseggi). Research your specific species’ preference.
• Temperature: Most isopods thrive at room temperature (around 70-78°F / 21-26°C). Avoid extreme heat or cold. Generally, no supplemental heating is required unless your home is very cold.
• Lighting: Isopods prefer dark conditions. No special lighting is needed. Keep them out of direct sunlight.

Diet & Nutrition

Isopods are detritivores, feeding primarily on decaying organic matter.

• Primary Diet: Decaying hardwood leaves (especially oak) and decaying wood within the substrate form the bulk of their diet. Ensure these are always available.
• Supplemental Foods: Offer occasional supplements for protein and variety. Options include:
  • Fish flakes or pellets
  • Dried shrimp or mealworms
  • Specialized isopod diets (like Repashy Morning Wood or Bug Burger)
  • Small pieces of vegetables (squash, carrot, sweet potato – remove uneaten portions quickly to prevent mold)
• Calcium Source: Essential for exoskeleton health. Provide a constant source like crushed cuttlebone, crushed oyster shell, limestone, or eggshells mixed into the substrate or offered in a small pile/dish.
• Feeding Frequency: Leaf litter and wood should always be present. Offer supplemental foods sparingly (e.g., once or twice a week) in small amounts. Remove uneaten supplemental food within a day or two to prevent mold and pests like fungus gnats.

Handling & Temperament

Isopods are generally harmless and can be handled gently.

• Handling: Can be gently scooped up or guided onto your hand. They are small and somewhat delicate, so be careful not to crush them. Handling is primarily for observation or moving them.
• Temperament: Peaceful detritivores. Many species (Armadillidium) will roll into a ball (“conglobate”) when disturbed. They are active primarily at night or in dark conditions.
• Observation: Watching their behavior within the enclosure, especially their interactions and foraging, is the main appeal.

Health, Breeding & Cleaning

Isopods are generally hardy and prolific breeders if conditions are right.

• Common Issues: Mold growth (usually due to over-watering or poor ventilation), fungus gnats or mites (can compete for food or stress isopods if populations explode), colony crashes (often due to sudden changes in environment, lack of food/calcium, or pesticide exposure).
• Breeding: Most common species breed readily in proper conditions. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) on their underside, releasing miniature versions of the adults (mancae). Providing adequate food, calcium, humidity, and hiding places encourages breeding.
• Cleaning: Isopod enclosures require minimal cleaning. They consume waste products.
  • Replenish leaf litter and wood as they are consumed.
  • Remove uneaten supplemental food promptly.
  • Full substrate changes are rarely necessary unless there’s a severe mold or pest issue. Top up substrate occasionally if needed.
• Quarantine: Always quarantine new isopods before adding them to an established colony or bioactive terrarium to prevent introducing pests or diseases.