Praying Mantis Care Guide

Praying Mantises (order Mantodea) are fascinating predatory insects known for their “praying” forelegs. They are relatively easy to care for, making them popular invertebrate pets, but they have specific needs regarding enclosure setup (especially for molting), temperature, humidity, and diet. There are many species available (e.g., Chinese Mantis, Giant Asian Mantis, Ghost Mantis, Orchid Mantis), each with potentially different specific requirements. Research your chosen species. They have relatively short lifespans, typically 6-18 months depending on species and sex.

Habitat & Enclosure

A suitable enclosure that allows for proper molting is crucial.

• Enclosure Type: Tall plastic or glass containers with secure mesh or fabric lids are ideal. Jars, deli cups (for nymphs), or specialized insect terrariums work well.
• Size & Orientation: Height is the most critical dimension. The enclosure should be at least 3 times the mantis’s length tall and 2 times its length wide. This vertical space is essential for successful molting, as they hang upside down.
• Molting Space: The *top* of the enclosure must be climbable (mesh, fabric, paper towel lining) to allow the mantis to hang securely for molting. There must be unobstructed vertical space at least twice the mantis’s length below its hanging point.
• Furnishings: Provide twigs, sticks (real or artificial), or artificial plants for climbing and resting. Avoid overcrowding the enclosure, especially the upper portion needed for molting.
• Substrate: Optional but can help maintain humidity. A thin layer of coconut fiber, paper towel, or vermiculite can be used. Keep it slightly damp for humidity-loving species.
• Ventilation: Good ventilation is important to prevent mold, especially if misting regularly. Mesh lids provide excellent ventilation.

Temperature & Humidity

Requirements vary significantly based on the species’ native climate.

• Temperature: Most species thrive at room temperature (70-80°F / 21-27°C). Some tropical species may benefit from slightly warmer temperatures (up to 85°F / 29°C). Avoid temperatures below 65°F (18°C). Position away from direct sunlight or drafts. Supplemental heating (small heat mat on the *back* or *side*, NOT under) may be needed in cold rooms but often isn’t necessary.
• Humidity: Varies greatly by species. Desert species need low humidity. Temperate species need moderate levels. Tropical species (like Ghost or Orchid Mantises) require higher humidity (60-80%+). Research your species!
• Misting: Maintain humidity by lightly misting the enclosure walls or substrate (not the mantis directly) with water (preferably distilled or spring water) as needed. Frequency depends on species, ventilation, and ambient humidity (ranging from daily for tropical species to once a week or less for desert species). Allow the enclosure to dry slightly between mistings.
• Monitoring: While hygrometers can be used, observing the mantis (difficulty molting can indicate low humidity) and substrate dampness is often practical.

Diet & Nutrition

Mantises are obligate carnivores requiring live insect prey.

• Food Type: Feed a variety of appropriately sized live insects.
  • Nymphs (young mantises): Start with flightless fruit flies (D. melanogaster, then D. hydei). Pinhead crickets or small roach nymphs can be offered as they grow.
  • Juveniles/Adults: Crickets, roaches (dubia, lobster, red runner), house flies, blue bottle flies, moths. Flying insects are often preferred and encourage natural hunting behavior.
• Prey Size: A general guideline is prey should be no longer than the mantis’s head or about 1/2 to 2/3 its body length. Prey that is too large can injure the mantis.
• Feeding Schedule: Nymphs need feeding daily or every other day. Juveniles/adults can be fed every 2-4 days, depending on the size of the meal and the mantis’s abdomen size (a plump abdomen means it’s well-fed).
• Feeding Method: Introduce live prey into the enclosure. You can also offer prey using tweezers, but be gentle.
• Uneaten Prey: Remove uneaten prey, especially crickets, within a few hours or the next day, as they can potentially harm a molting or resting mantis.
• Water: Mantises get most of their water from their food but will also drink water droplets. Misting provides drinking water. A water dish is unnecessary and can pose a drowning risk, especially for nymphs.

Handling & Temperament

Mantises can often be handled gently but require care.

• Gentle Handling: Many mantises tolerate gentle handling. Allow the mantis to walk onto your hand rather than grabbing it. They are delicate, especially their legs.
• Minimize Stress: Keep handling sessions brief. Avoid sudden movements.
• Temperament: Generally calm and curious, but they are predators and may occasionally strike defensively if startled, though they rarely cause harm to humans.
• Flight Risk: Adults of winged species can fly; handle them in a secure area.
• Fragility: Be mindful of their delicate legs and bodies. Avoid falls.

Health, Molting & Cleaning

Molting is the most critical and potentially dangerous time for a mantis.

• Molting (Ecdysis): Mantises molt several times (typically 5-9 times depending on species and sex) to reach adulthood. They hang upside down and shed their old skin. This is extremely energy-intensive and vulnerable.
  • Do *not* disturb a molting mantis.
  • Ensure adequate humidity (species-dependent) leading up to and during the molt.
  • Ensure sufficient, unobstructed vertical space.
  • Remove all uneaten prey from the enclosure before a molt.
  • Mismolts (getting stuck) are often fatal and usually related to incorrect humidity or lack of proper molting space/surface.
• Common Issues: Mismolts, dehydration, injuries from prey or falls, fungal/bacterial infections (often due to poor ventilation/overly wet conditions), problems related to aging (difficulty hunting, lethargy).
• Veterinary Care: Vets specializing in insects are extremely rare. Prevention through proper husbandry is key.
• Cleaning: Mantises produce minimal waste (small droppings/pellets). Spot clean waste as needed. Remove prey remains. Full enclosure cleaning is rarely needed unless mold or pests appear.
• Lifespan: Be aware of their relatively short natural lifespan (often under a year for males, slightly longer for females).
• Communal Housing: Mantises are highly cannibalistic. NEVER house more than one mantis per enclosure, except for specific communal species (rare) or very briefly for supervised breeding attempts.