Scorpion Pet Care Guide

Scorpions are arachnids known for their distinctive pincers (pedipalps) and segmented tail ending in a stinger (telson). Like tarantulas, they make interesting, low-maintenance display pets. Care varies greatly depending on the species’ native environment (desert vs. forest). Crucially, ALL scorpions possess venom, and some species are dangerously toxic to humans. Beginners should stick to species with mild venom, like Emperor Scorpions (Pandinus imperator) or Asian Forest Scorpions (Heterometrus spp.). Research venom potency and specific care needs *before* acquiring any scorpion. Handling is strongly discouraged.

Habitat & Enclosure

An escape-proof enclosure suited to the scorpion’s needs is essential.

• Enclosure Type: Glass tanks or plastic enclosures with very secure, tight-fitting lids are necessary. Scorpions can climb surprisingly well. Good ventilation is important, especially for desert species, but humidity retention is key for forest species.
• Size: Most scorpions don’t need vast amounts of space. A 5-10 gallon tank is often sufficient for a single adult of many common species. Floor space is more important than height for most. Provide enough room for substrate depth, hides, and a water dish.
• Substrate: Varies by origin.
  • Desert Species (e.g., Hadrurus arizonensis – Desert Hairy): Need sand or a sand/soil mix, kept mostly dry. Substrate depth should allow burrowing if the species is fossorial.
  • Forest Species (e.g., Pandinus imperator, Heterometrus spp.): Need moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fiber, peat moss, or cypress mulch, kept damp but not waterlogged. Good depth (3-6 inches) allows burrowing and humidity regulation.
• Hides: Absolutely essential. Provide multiple secure hiding spots like cork bark flats, half-logs, stacked rocks (securely placed!), or caves. Scorpions are nocturnal and need dark retreats.
• Water Dish: A very shallow, stable water dish with clean water should always be available. Bottle caps or deli container lids work well. Ensure it’s shallow enough to prevent drowning. Sponges are unnecessary.

Temperature & Humidity

Match conditions to the scorpion’s native habitat.

• Temperature:
  • Desert Species: Generally prefer warmer temperatures, often 75-85°F (24-29°C), sometimes with warmer basking spots. Room temperature might suffice, but supplemental heating (UTH on the side with thermostat) may be needed.
  • Forest Species: Typically thrive in warmer, stable temperatures, often 75-82°F (24-28°C). Avoid overheating. Room temperature is often adequate, but supplemental side-heating might be needed in cooler homes.
  Always research the specific species range. Nighttime temperature drops are usually acceptable.
• Humidity:
  • Desert Species: Require low humidity (40-60%). Good ventilation is key. Lightly misting a corner occasionally or relying on the water dish might be enough.
  • Forest Species: Need high humidity (70-85%+). Maintain this through deep, damp substrate and regular misting. Ensure good ventilation to prevent stagnant air and mold.
  Use a hygrometer to monitor levels.
• Lighting: Scorpions are nocturnal and shun bright light. Ambient room light is sufficient. No special lighting is required. A blacklight can be used briefly for viewing, as scorpions fluoresce, but avoid prolonged exposure.

Diet & Nutrition

Scorpions are predators, primarily eating insects.

• Food Type: Feed appropriately sized live insects like crickets, dubia roaches, locusts, or mealworms. Prey size should generally be smaller than the scorpion’s body.
• Feeding Schedule: Adults typically eat 1-2 appropriately sized prey items per week. Juveniles (scorplings) eat more frequently, perhaps every other day. Adjust based on the scorpion’s appetite and body condition.
• Feeding Method: Introduce live prey into the enclosure, preferably in the evening when the scorpion is active.
• Uneaten Prey: Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours. Live prey can stress or potentially injure a scorpion, especially during molting.
• Pre-Molt: Scorpions, like tarantulas, will often refuse food before molting. Do not offer food during this time or immediately after a molt until the exoskeleton hardens.
• Water: Keep the shallow water dish clean and filled. Forest species also absorb moisture from their substrate.

Handling & Temperament

Handling scorpions is dangerous and strongly discouraged.

• Venom Risk: ALL scorpions have venom delivered via their stinger. While many common pet species have mild venom (like a bee sting), some species possess medically significant venom that can cause severe pain, illness, or even death in humans. **Know your species’ venom potency.**
• Sting Behavior: Scorpions sting defensively when they feel threatened. Handling greatly increases the risk of being stung.
• Observation Pets: Treat scorpions as display animals only. Their behavior within the enclosure is fascinating to watch.
• Temperament Varies: Some species are relatively docile (e.g., Emperors), while others are highly defensive and quick to sting (e.g., Deathstalkers – Leiurus quinquestriatus – **NOT FOR BEGINNERS**).
• Moving/Rehousing: Use long forceps (12+ inches) to gently grasp the scorpion by the tail (near the body, *not* the stinger) or use a secure catch cup method. Exercise extreme caution.

Health, Molting & Cleaning

Proper husbandry prevents most health issues.

• Molting: Scorpions shed their exoskeleton to grow. This is a vulnerable period. They may hide and refuse food beforehand. Ensure appropriate humidity levels for the species to aid molting. Do not disturb them during or immediately after a molt. Remove uneaten prey.
• Common Issues: Dehydration (especially desert species), fungal/bacterial infections (often from overly wet/stagnant conditions), mites, mismolts, injuries, parasites.
• Veterinary Care: Finding vets experienced with scorpions is rare. Focus on preventative care through correct husbandry.
• Cleaning: Scorpions are relatively clean. Spot clean prey remains and waste. Keep the water dish clean. Full substrate changes are infrequent (every 6-12+ months) unless mold or pests become an issue.
• Communal Housing: Most scorpions are solitary and cannibalistic. Only a few select species can sometimes be housed communally with extreme caution and specific setups (e.g., Emperors under certain conditions). Generally, house scorpions individually.