Tarantula Care Guide

Tarantulas are large, often hairy spiders belonging to the Theraphosidae family. They make fascinating, low-maintenance display pets. Care varies depending on whether the species is terrestrial (ground-dwelling), arboreal (tree-dwelling), or fossorial (burrowing). Research the specific needs (especially humidity and temperature) of your chosen species (e.g., Grammostola rosea/porteri, Brachypelma hamorii, Avicularia avicularia). Tarantulas possess venom and some species (“New World”) have urticating hairs; handling is generally discouraged.

Habitat & Enclosure

The enclosure must be secure and appropriate for the tarantula’s lifestyle.

• Enclosure Type: Glass tanks, plastic terrariums (like Kritter Keepers for smaller Ts), or specialized acrylic enclosures work well. Secure lids with adequate cross-ventilation are crucial.
• Size & Orientation:
  • Terrestrial/Fossorial: Need more floor space than height. A general rule is 2-3 times the tarantula’s leg span in length and width. Height should be low enough to prevent injury from falls (not much more than 1-1.5x leg span from substrate to lid).
  • Arboreal: Need more height than floor space. Provide vertical structures for climbing and web-building (cork bark, branches).
• Substrate: Depth varies. Terrestrial species need a few inches. Fossorial species require deep substrate (6+ inches) for burrowing. Arboreal species need less (1-2 inches). Good options include coconut fiber, peat moss, vermiculite, or specialized invertebrate mixes. Keep it slightly damp or dry depending on species’ humidity needs.
• Hide: Essential for security. Half-logs, cork bark rounds or flats, or even small plastic pots work well. Position hides appropriately (on the ground for terrestrial, vertically for arboreal).
• Water Dish: Provide a shallow dish with clean water. Bottle caps work for spiderlings. Ensure it’s not deep enough for the T to drown. Adding pebbles or sponge is unnecessary and can harbor bacteria.

Temperature & Humidity

Requirements vary significantly by species’ origin.

• Temperature: Most species do well at room temperature (around 70-78°F / 21-26°C). Some may appreciate slightly warmer temps (low 80s°F / 27-28°C), but many common species tolerate typical household temps well. Avoid placing near drafts or direct sunlight. Supplemental heating (like a small heat mat on the *side* of the tank, regulated by a thermostat) may be needed for some tropical species or in cold rooms, but often isn’t necessary. **Never place heat mats underneath**, as tarantulas burrow to escape heat.
• Humidity: Varies widely. Desert species (e.g., G. rosea) prefer dry conditions with just a water dish. Tropical species (e.g., Avicularia, Theraphosa) require higher humidity (70-85%). This is maintained by substrate choice, misting the substrate/sides (not the T itself), or periodically overflowing the water dish. Good ventilation is crucial, especially in high-humidity setups, to prevent mold. Use a hygrometer if unsure.
• Lighting: Tarantulas are nocturnal/crepuscular and dislike bright light. Ambient room light is sufficient. No special lighting is needed.

Diet & Nutrition

Tarantulas are insectivores.

• Food Type: Primarily gut-loaded insects like crickets, dubia roaches, locusts, or mealworms (superworms for larger Ts). Prey size should generally be no larger than the tarantula’s body length (abdomen).
• Feeding Schedule: Spiderlings (slings) eat frequently (2-3 times a week). Juveniles eat 1-2 times a week. Adults eat less often, ranging from once a week to once every few weeks, depending on species, size, and time since last molt.
• Feeding Method: Drop live prey into the enclosure. Observe to ensure the tarantula eats it.
• Uneaten Prey: Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours. Live prey can stress or even harm a tarantula, especially if it’s molting. Crickets, in particular, may chew on a vulnerable molting T.
• Pre-Molt: Tarantulas often refuse food for days or weeks leading up to a molt. This is normal. Do not offer food during this period or while the T is freshly molted and its fangs are hardening.
• Water: Keep the water dish clean and filled.

Handling & Temperament

Handling tarantulas is generally discouraged due to risks for both the spider and the keeper.

• Risks to Tarantula: Tarantulas are extremely fragile. A fall from even a short height can rupture their abdomen and be fatal. Handling also causes significant stress.
• Risks to Keeper: All tarantulas have venom, though most species’ bites are medically insignificant (comparable to a bee sting, unless allergic). More significantly, many “New World” species possess urticating hairs on their abdomen, which they can kick off when threatened. These hairs cause itching, rashes, and serious irritation if they get in the eyes or are inhaled. “Old World” species lack these hairs but often have more potent venom and defensive temperaments.
• Observation Pets: Best enjoyed by watching them in their enclosure.
• Temperament Varies: Species and individuals have different temperaments, ranging from docile (e.g., G. rosea, A. chalcodes) to defensive (e.g., many Old World species like Pterinochilus murinus – OBT). Learn your species’ reputation.
• Moving/Rehousing: Use a catch cup and lid, or gently guide the tarantula into the cup with long tongs or a soft brush. Never use your hands directly.

Health, Molting & Cleaning

Tarantulas are generally hardy, with molting being the most critical process.

• Molting: Tarantulas must shed their exoskeleton to grow. They typically molt on their backs (don’t panic, they aren’t dead!). This is a vulnerable time. DO NOT disturb a molting tarantula. Ensure adequate humidity (if required for the species) and remove any live prey. They may not eat for some time before and after molting. Molting problems (getting stuck) can occur, often related to low humidity.
• Common Issues: Dehydration (ensure water dish is full), mites (rare but possible), fungal infections (due to overly wet/stagnant conditions), impaction (rare), mismolts, injuries from falls or prey. Bad molt (Dyskinetic Syndrome – DKS) can sometimes occur, often with unknown causes.
• Veterinary Care: Finding vets experienced with invertebrates is difficult. Good husbandry is the best prevention.
• Cleaning: Tarantulas are clean animals. Spot clean waste (boluses – leftover prey remains) and shed exoskeletons. Change substrate only if it becomes moldy, harbors pests, or is heavily soiled (usually infrequent, every 6-12+ months). Keep the water dish clean.